Tuesday, September 13, 2005

Wilderness Trek in Bandipur

I have trekked in the Himalayas, but, I have to admit here, that I love jungle safaris, I love being close to places that have lots of trees and wild animals. I was thinking of how would it be to trek in the jungles..or may be go for a long. For people who wish for something, I believe, it comes true.

There is a Adventure Activity Planner in Bangalore called Capture Treks. Capture organizes weekend treks in places around Bangalore. By the way, there are loads of places in Karnataka that are great trekking locations. Karnataka is a heaven for adventure / nature lovers.

I received a email from Capture informing about the 2 day trek at Bandipur. Bandipur is about 240 kms from Bangalore. It is a protected forest area and it is a national park, with tigers, elephants, deers, sambhar, bison, langurs, peacocks, and several other species of animals and plants.

Capture trekking program includes transport from Bangalore to Bandipur, food, tents, guides and every thing else required. We were to just report at the pick up point, with our ruck sack. We were to carry sleeping bag or rugs and warm clothing for ourselves.

First I thought a 2 day trek may not be exciting at all, then, I thought why not try it once, before coming to any conclusion.

This time, I convinced my husband to join me. This was his first trek, and he was excited too.

We left on a Saturday morning. Our pick up point was at Kids kemp on MG road, and we reported at 5.45 am. There were others also at this place. We met our trekking co-ordinator Nag – a tall red haired chappy. He was chirpy and got tea from the local tea wallah in the morning for all of us. Trust me, that morning cuppa was extra sweet and was good.

We got into the Tempo traveler that was arranged for us, picked up some more people on the way, had break fast in one of the restaurants on the way, and zoomed towards Bandipur. Our driver had a very good sense of music, and had the best hindi film and remix songs. We got acquainted with the rest of the group members. All of them were people working in Bangalore. We were in 2 tempo travelers, and we were 24 people in all including the 3 trekking guides / co-ordinators who were with us.

We reached Bandipur at about 1 pm. Lunch was served – simple rotis and a sabji. I don’t expect exotic food while I am trekking. The group was quickly split into 3 of 8 members each. Each group was accompanied by one trekking co-ordinator. My groups co-ordinator was Nag. The ration was also split among the group members, we put all the things into our bags. We filled water. My group of 8 was cool…me, my hubby, a friend from Uttaranchal trek, and 4 other trekkers from Bangalore.

The 3 groups split and went our own way in the jungle. Apart from the trek guide, it was compulsory for us to have a forest guide along with us. Only they know all the paths in the jungle.

We started walking into the deep jungle. We were always on the footpath…but, the trees, the smell of fresh forest air was refreshing. The forest grass of the pre-monsoon showers had grown to a height of 7 feet, really tall, and their sharp blades were cutting the hands and other exposed parts of the body. There were several streams and rivulets in this part of the jungle. We spotted all the animals except the tiger. Tigers are shy and when they hear any sound, because of their shy and reclusive nature, they run away and hide. The tall grass was not helping us at all. So, it is possible to see all animals except the tiger, and to see one, one has to be really lucky. On that day, none of us were lucky.

After about 4 hrs of walking through bushes and tall grasses and crossing streams, walking little up hill and downhill, we were all getting a little tired. It was also raining continuously. And, trekking makes one get in touch with the self. If I were in the city, if it rained I would run for cover. But, while I am trekking, if it rains, I am supposed to wear a raincoat and proceed. We were expecting a lot of leachy pals. We had sprays and salt ready to get rid of them. The forest floor was slushy because of the rain, but, none of experienced a leachy encounter.

At about 5 pm, and after a lot of huffing and panting, we reached a really high point in the mountains. It was a elevated place, from where we could have a full view of the forest area around us. It was cloudy and we could see the clouds pass through us and get away. And, this was the right place for a anti-poaching camp. We did not carry our tent equipment with us, as we knew that we would camp in one of the anti-poaching camps.

The anti-poaching camp, is nothing but a small hut made of straw on top of a elevated place. There were 2 anti-poaching guards staying there. They had made a camp fire for themselves and were having a good time. The wind was blowing at a great speed, it was cold and was nice.

Nag, forced us to get up and stretch ourselves a bit. We played some whacky games. Some of the trekking friends along with them, some marinated chicken, with which we made a great barbecue. We had an awesome time, on top of the mountain, a cold wind blowing on our faces, and Chicken barbecue to eat. We yapped until we could not bear the cold wind. We ate rice and dal, and went to sleep inside the hut, all in a row. It was like a symphony inside the hut, all the men were snoring, and it was tough to sleep.

The next morning was refreshing. We woke up late like what we do if we were at our homes on a Sunday morning. We did our early morning sunda in the open area with cold wind blowing on our face. We had maggi, bread and jam, and tea and started trekking back to the starting point. This time it was much easier, as we knew what to expect.

We were to reach the starting point at 9.30 am, but, as we started late, we reached late. Trekking to Gopalaswamy betta was on the agenda, all 24 were tired and did not want to do any uphill climbing. And, we were terribly hungry. We got into the first restaurant on the way and hogged food. Then, we went to visit the Gopalaswamy bette temple by the tempo traveler. The journey back home was smooth, we reached home at about 10.30 pm.

The jungle trek was a great experience. My husband loved the experience, and is game for more. The cost of the entire trek was Rs. 1200 for the 2 day program, including transport and food. I think it is very economical and well organized.

Capture Treks also organizes Group treks, Family treks, White river rafting programs, parasailing and many other things.

Capture Treks : 98 /1, 1st floor, 30th Cross, 7th Block, Jaya Nagar, Bangalore – 82. Ph. 080 – 5696 1099. Email : capturetreks@yahoo.co.in. Contact : Krishna

Thursday, August 18, 2005

Nirvana in the Valley - Har ki Doon

Uttaranchal is great. It was a 10 day trek and the route was Sankri – Juda Talab – Kedarkantha – Kedarkantha Peak - Dhundha – Talhouti – Lekhathatch – Seema – Har Ki Doon – Seema – Taluka – Sankri..pretty long, starting with 4 kms on first day and averaging about 15 kms from day 4 on wards. Really tough and taxing on the body.

From Mussourie, 58 of us ( all in my group ) took the bus to Sankri. Sankri is at about 5800 feet about sea, and the route from Mussorie is scary. It was a mud tract, and the bus was inching in full throttle towards the destination, the 187 km ride took 8 hrs to complete. The entire trek was inside the Govind National Park, and it is a protected area.

I must say that we are a lucky team, as we had snow in most of the camps, had I been in a latter group, I would have seen less of glaciers, and more of flowers on the mountain slopes. Seriously, I prefer the snow to the flowers.

I must not call the entire thing a trek, It was a surprise for all the us, as we were expecting normal treks along mountain slopes and valleys. The entire affair turned out to be a mountaineering expedition, with ropes on all mountain slopes, and we secured with harnesses and carabiners to the ropes. Little was a little difficult for me, coz, thought I have trekked a bit in the past, I am not technically sound when it comes to trekking on glaciers. I slipped once for every 3 steps I took.

The weather gods were merciless, just when we were about to get to the almost 80 degree steep climb to the Kedarkantha peak at 12700 feet, we had a rain fall / hail storm. My fingers were freezing. The ropes provided the much needed support.

We walked on dangerous ridges, a wrong step would have taken me to the bottom of the cliff, and even bones would be tough to find. The entire ridge route seems tough, but, as I started climbing, I realized there was sufficient places to move on. I just went forward thinking of just the next step ahead of me. I turned back once to see, when I had crossed already. I was climbing the glacier that was nearly vertical with ropes. Tough with rain and the winds. And all that, I felt really good as I standing on top of Kedarkantha.

The next days trek / mountaineering to Talhouti was a adventure. All of us secured with harness and carabiners to ropes pegged into mountain slopes. It was nearly 12 kms on glaciers. First it was on sides of the glacier, then, uphill , then downhill, and the entire thing was tough, and I remembered God more that day, than any other day. The climate helped. Couple of my team mates slipped below, but, were safe as they were anyway secured. At the end of the day we felt extremely thrilled to have completed the most risky and technically demanding part of the trek.

The rest of the days were a cake walk, walking through rivers sides, up hill, downhill, tough on the body, but, easy to negotiate. Temperatures went sub zero on three days and nights. I was wearing all my wollens, it was not sufficient, but the sleeping bags were good. I did not brush teeth was 3 days, used center fresh instead in the mornings, and used toilet papers. Coz, every time I put my hand into water, my hands would get rigid and would seem like it is a frozen ice block. I would have to warm it was 30 mins to feel any sensation.

Har ki doon is a very beautiful valley and here it snows every afternoon. The valley looks very normal with dry thorny bushes, but, when it snows, and it does snow heavily here every day, it becomes like a Christmas / new year post card. The experience was awesome.

All of us forgot what date and what day it was. The only thing on the mind was to watch out the next step, lest u go down, whether it is rain and snow. It was a good proposition. Imagine the group leader giving us pep talk in the snow / rain.

Lunch was never really problem. Though we pack lunch for the noon in the morning, as Har ki doon is a popular trekking route, there are several maggi / egg omelette / chai / frooti shops on the way. We could have what we wanted.

The trek brought me close to lots of people with like minded tendencies, and would try my best to maintain friendships with them throughout. There were people of all age groups, 15 to 45 yrs age.

After the trek, we split a Mussorie. Most of us stayed back at Mussorie for a day for local sight seeing and for rest.

After my sojourn, I took the flight back to Bangalore and I have reported at work as well. Haridwar and Rishikesh were so close to Dehradun, I must have planned to visit them as well. But, was really tired to even think on those terms. Will plan them some other time, along with Badrinath and Kedarnath.

The scenery was soo beautiful, and all camp sites gave a view of the medium and higher Himalayan ranges. We were still trekking at the lower level ranges. I started feeling home sick, and wanted a good home made chai ( with the right amout of sugar and milk ) and desperately needed a hot water bath.

I must make a special mention of the camp site locations. Kedarkanta, Dhundha, Talhouti and Har Ki Doon valley camp sites were the most beautiful places I have even seen in my life. I witnessed the most beautiful sunset drama at Kedarkantha. Dhundha and Talhouti had not water…and the camp was surrounded by glaciers. Mid-way during the trek between Dhundha and Talhouti, we got to a point, so high, that I could see snowy peaks below me, and all around me. It was awesome. It would not be possible to see these places as a tourist. Once has to trek to get there. I wish I spent more time in Sankri Village. I went through the village one day, and I was falling in love with the place – the jungles around, the sound of the gurgling sound of the river flowing beneath, the laughing kids, and the mountains surrounding it. Picture perfect.

Now that I am back, I feel I am little wiser. Coz, on the top of mountains, I usually get philosophical and start asking myself questions like – who I am, what I am, what is my purpose, karma, what am I doing here, what is my destiny, what is there a purpose to the whole thing, purpose of my life, etc…get more confused, but at the end i am happy that I actually got to the top of the mountain, if not anything else.

I have already decided I am going trekking again, next summer, higher than this year. Trekking is addictive.

If any of you wish to go on a trek organized by Youth Hostel Association of India. http://www.yhaindia.org

Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam also organized a lot of treks in Uttaranchal.
http://www.gmvnl.com/